How to Read Skincare Labels: A Simple Guide to Choosing Herbal and Natural Ingredients

When you walk into a store or scroll online for skincare, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed. Labels are covered in scientific-sounding names, “all-natural” claims, and endless lists of ingredients you may or may not recognize. But here’s the good news: once you learn how to read a skincare label, you’ll never look at products the same way again.

Understanding labels isn’t just about avoiding harmful chemicals—it’s about making empowered choices, knowing what herbs and plants are really in your product, and being able to source ingredients that align with your values. Whether you’re a beginner in herbal skincare or an experienced DIY formulator, this guide will break it down into simple steps you can follow.

1. Why Ingredient Order Matters

The very first thing to know about skincare labels is this: ingredients are listed in order of weight, from most to least.

That means the top three to five ingredients usually make up the majority of the product. If the label says “Calendula Face Cream” but calendula extract is the very last ingredient, you’re probably getting only a tiny sprinkle of it—more for marketing than real skin benefits.

Quick tip: When you pick up a product, glance at the first few ingredients. If they’re mostly water, glycerin, or cheap filler oils, you’ll know what you’re actually paying for.

2. Decoding INCI: The Language of Ingredients

INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. It’s the global system for naming skincare ingredients, and it’s designed to avoid confusion between common names.

Here’s how to read it:

• First words: The Latin name of the plant. Example: Calendula officinalis.

• Parentheses: The part of the plant used. Example: (Flower) Extract.

• Last word: The form the ingredient takes—oil, extract, butter, juice, etc.

  
  

So, when you see Calendula officinalis (Flower) Extract, you know it’s from the flower of the calendula plant, and it’s an extract, not just a fragrance.

Why this matters: Herbal potency depends on the plant part used. Chamomile flowers soothe the skin; chamomile stems won’t do the same. Always look for the full Latin name plus the part of the plant.

3. Natural vs. Synthetic: What to Look For

Not all synthetics are bad. In fact, some are safe, stable, and even eco-friendly. But when you’re choosing herbal skincare, it helps to know the difference.

Examples of safe synthetics:

• Cetearyl Alcohol (a fatty alcohol that conditions the skin)

• Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (a stable derivative of coconut oil)

Examples of red-list synthetics:

• Paraffinum Liquidum (mineral oil, derived from petroleum)

• Petrolatum (petroleum jelly, often used as a cheap filler)

  
  

Pro tip: Don’t judge a formula just because it contains an unfamiliar chemical-sounding name. Instead, research whether it’s plant-derived, safe, and functional—or a cheap substitute that doesn’t align with herbal values.

4. Ingredient Groups: Breaking Down the Formula

To really understand what you’re looking at, group ingredients by their purpose. Here’s a simple framework:

• Base/Carrier Ingredients – Oils, butters, hydrosols. These form the foundation of the product. Look for organic, unrefined, cold-pressed options.

• Herbal Actives – Plant infusions, extracts, and vitamins. This is where the healing power comes from.

• Emulsifiers & Thickeners – These combine oil and water or give texture. Safer options include beeswax, lecithin, or Olivem 1000.

• Preservatives – Essential for any product with water. Herbal-friendly options include sodium benzoate + potassium sorbate, radish root ferment, or benzyl alcohol with dehydroacetic acid.

• Fragrance – Ideally essential oils or hydrosols. Avoid vague “fragrance” or “parfum,” which usually means synthetic blends.

  
  

Understanding these categories helps you spot whether the product is truly herbal-based—or if the herbs are just window dressing.

5. The Green List vs. Red Flags

Sometimes you don’t have time to research every ingredient. That’s where quick reference lists come in handy.

Green List (herbal-friendly):

• Cold-pressed oils (Rosa canina, Argania spinosa)

• CO₂ or glycerin plant extracts (Calendula officinalis Flower Extract)

• Hydrosols (Rosa damascena Flower Water)

• Gentle preservatives (radish root ferment, potassium sorbate)

• Natural emulsifiers (beeswax, lecithin)

Red Flags (often avoided):

• Mineral oil and petrolatum

• Formaldehyde-releasing preservatives (DMDM Hydantoin)

• Certain parabens (Methylparaben, Propylparaben)

• Synthetic fragrance (“Fragrance” or “Parfum”)

• Silicones (Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane) in “natural” products

  
  

6. Spotting Greenwashing

Here’s the tricky part: skincare marketing is full of unregulated words like “natural,” “pure,” and “botanical.”

A lotion might say “with lavender” on the front label, but when you flip it over, the only lavender is a synthetic lavender fragrance oil at the bottom of the list.

How to check:

• Is the featured herb in the top half of the ingredient list?

• Is it listed as a real extract, oil, or hydrosol—or just a fragrance?

• Are petrochemicals or silicones also included, hiding under the “natural” marketing?

  
  

Once you get in the habit of flipping labels, you’ll see through greenwashing fast.

7. Sourcing Checklist: Questions to Ask Suppliers

For those who make their own herbal skincare—or buy from small makers—sourcing is everything. Not all calendula oil is created equal. Here’s a checklist you can use when shopping:

• 🌱 Source – Is it organic, wildcrafted, or conventionally grown?

• 📄 Documentation – Can the supplier provide a Certificate of Analysis (COA) or Safety Data Sheet (SDS)?

• 🛠 Processing Method – Was it cold-pressed, CO₂ extracted, steam-distilled, or macerated in oil?

• 🧴 Shelf Life – What is the expiration date, and how should it be stored?

• 🧪 Additives – Are there hidden stabilizers, synthetic colors, or fragrance oils added?

  
  

These questions help you choose ingredients that are high-quality, safe, and true to herbal values.

8. A Step-by-Step Label Workflow

If all of this feels like a lot, here’s a quick workflow you can practice every time you pick up a product:

1. Scan the first three ingredients – That’s the bulk of the formula.

2. Locate the herbal actives – Are they near the top, or buried at the bottom?

3. Check preservatives – Are they safe and gentle?

4. Look at fragrance – Is it an essential oil or a vague “fragrance”?

5. Note red flags – If you see lots of silicones, mineral oil, or synthetic fragrance, set it back on the shelf.

   
   

With practice, this whole process will take you less than 30 seconds.

9. Why This Matters

Learning to read labels isn’t just about avoiding harmful ingredients—it’s about taking back your power as a consumer.

Herbal skincare is about transparency, tradition, and respect for plants. When you can decode labels, you stop being swayed by marketing buzzwords and start making choices that align with your values and your skin’s needs.

And if you’re a maker, this knowledge allows you to source ingredients with confidence, knowing you’re creating products that are safe, effective, and rooted in the wisdom of plants.

Final Thoughts

Reading skincare labels can feel like learning a new language—but once you know the basics, it becomes second nature. Start by checking ingredient order, learning the Latin names, spotting safe vs. questionable synthetics, and using green vs. red lists as your quick reference.

Most importantly, always ask where ingredients come from, how they’re processed, and whether they’re included in amounts that actually matter.

With these tools, you’ll be able to look beyond the pretty packaging and see the true story behind every bottle, jar, or cream. Herbal skincare deserves honesty and transparency—and now you have the knowledge to find it. I hope this helps you!

~The Earthbound Herb 🌿